5.11 trad, circa 1988 with a Patagonia wind shell in tow
There are few pieces of gear that have been a consistent staple in my gear collection for a few decades.
I can limit it to boots, pack, crampons, and a set of axes for the most part. And in that tiem frame all of them have changed several times over. Except one. When it comes to clothing two items have remained pretty consistent. A decent lwt down jacket and a light weight wind shell.
Only the lowly wind shell has literally saved my life a time or two. Literally considered "emergency equipment" for the most part. Like in the picture above tied around my waist and unnoticed until needed.
Same shell on the summit of Rainier circa 1984
I generally take one of these along when the weather is "perfect" in the mtns but I'll be out long enough or up high enough that the weather can change in short order. Alpine rock climbs with a good change of a thunder storm or a perfect day on the local volcanos that is bound to be windy at sunrise. Or for my ultra light trips where I generally end up suffering a bit if my plans don't go as first thought out and I end up huddled around a fire all night to keep warm.
Or when I just want something to add a little warmth and break the wind while while still breathing well as I try to move quickly on a easy approach like walking out to Professors in chilly temps.
Spring and still the same wind shell @ 6oz for my Large.
They seem to last awhile and are light in weight (around 5 oz in a large) and for the most part pretty wind proof and breath well. The best fabrics these days also offer some rain protection with the most modern fabrics. For my ancient gear I just give them a good soaking to get a DWR with something like Nikwax fabric coating. And try to keep them away from an open flame and wind blown embers.
I get teased every time I put on my 80's purple Patagonia pull over shells (I have 2 ) because the bright colors gives away the age. Not like my white hair doesn't! So while my Patagonia piece is the for runner of the current Patagonia Houdini (retails @ 125 or under, some times WAY under so look around!) of today the only thing that seems hard on any of the them is fire. After I collected a bunch of pin holes in my favorite shell during an unplanned overnight stop with a resulting fire to keep me warm till morning I went looking for a new shell.
I found three I think are worth mentioning but there are any number of them out there. Patagonia Houdini is a good place to start if you don't like what I ended up with.
The first up is really the rock star of the bunch. Camp'sMAGIC ANORAK aka Flash Anorak. Brian (who convinced me to buy one) has a great write up on it here:
http://www.getstrongergolonger.com/journal//12/24/camp-flash-anorak.html
Yep, no back on this one and you cna add or take it off without removing your pack. At first I thought it only a skimo gizmo for the race guys. Now it is one if nto my favorite for serious stuff in the mtns.
The RAB Cirrus Wind Top: Next up is my now "every day" lwt. The Camp Flash was so goodI figured I needed something with actual full coverage for when...likeIwasn't wearing a pack! I am using this one every where and forthings I would never pull out an anorak for. Running, biking andeven throw it in my pack for a day of cragging. Or off for a beer in townif the weather is decent enough to sit on the patio. Love the full zip but itstill seems like I am cheating some how. But one of my now favorite pieces of kit. Useful kit as Ally shows on the summit of Mt. Blanc. photo courtesy of Ally and Jon Griffith @ Alpine Exposures http://allyswinton.blogspot.com//08/innominata-ridge.html http://www.alpineexposures.com/ The Cirrus Wind-Top is the full zip version of the Cirrus Pull-On. Using the same Pertex Quantum 15 Denier fabric as the Pull-On the Wind-Top also features an under-helmet hood and 2 zipped hand-warmer pockets.Designed for fast and light use the Cirrus Wind-Top is a fully featured jacket that can be used over layers to create a warm and windproof clothing system yet weighs in at just 120g / 4ozThe Cirrus Wind Top is ideal for adventureracers, mountain marathons, fell runners, mountain bikers, or even for super lightweight alpine style ascents on rock where wind proof protection is required. Sizes: S - XXL Weight: 120g / 4oz (4.6oz for my Large) $110 retail http://us.rab.uk.com/products/mens-clothing/windshell_1/cirrus-wind-top.html Last but not least is an interesting new shell from NW Alpine. With a retail of $475.00 American DOLLARS I am not sure what to think yet. I have yet to wear a lwt shell out..even the less than $100 ones. But then I try to take care of them and they don't generally get to touch granite. Simply because it will shred a normal lt weight. Bill @ NW Alpine may be on to something here. My Eyebright weighs in at 5.4oz for a size Large. Mind you Bill is looking at the Eye Bright as "thelightestfully featured waterproof/breathablejacket on the market". As in "fully featured" like any of the Gortex, H2No or Event shells offered by others in a similar price range. This could well be the ultimate lwt waterproof and breathable jacket and a lwt wind shell or body armor as a bonus. If it is, with the kind ofdurability claimed the $475. might actually be a be a bargain. Just remember any of these shells will melt if you add a little heat! World’s Lightest Full Featured Waterproof/Breathable Jacket The name Eyebright refers to the genus of many species of flowers that thrive in high alpine meadows where their small size belies the strength it takes to survive in harsh mountain conditions. The Eyebright Jacket is built from waterproof/breathable non-woven Dyneema® fabric. Unlike other ultralight jackets that will tear at the sight of granite, our fabric provides tear strength and abrasion resistance superior to any other material of it’s weight. The waterproof membrane is one of the most breathable available on the market. With fully taped seams, adjustable cuff tabs, an adjustable helmet-compatible hood, and chest pocket, the Eyebright is the lightest fully featured waterproof/breathable jacket on the market. Simply put, if you need a shell that weighs almost nothing, packs small and can stand up to the abuse of alpine climbing, bring this jacket on your next trip. Available in white, made in the USA. |
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