Antelope Canyon

WOW... Antelope Canyon is... in a word... SPECTACULAR!!!!! Definitely some of the most fascinating light I have ever seen. I spent 4.5 hours in the canyon. My mind is officially blown :-)



Above: The entrance to the canyon. Only about two feet wide at its beginning, the canyon is a bit of a squeeze to climb down into it!



Once you are down in the canyon, it does open up and travel through it is a bit easier than at the beginning. There are several areas, though, where it is only wide enough for one person to walk through at a time.



Above: A shot of Lionel, one of the Navajo guides that brings tour groups through the canyon.



Every place you look in the canyon is a treat for the eyes. The shapes and lines in the canyon walls provide for unlimited photo opportunities. The reflected light coming from above makes for some of the most amazing light that a photographer will ever see.

Mirabelle's First "Hike" ..

So last Thursday we were running some errands in Shoreline and decided to stop by Shoreview Park as it was not raining and we needed something to do that was not our errands. Jennifer and I had stopped by there previously, but I think we were on bicycles and it was our turnaround point for a ride, complete with bathrooms. We only knew of the ball fields and were not fully aware of the wooded paths at the park. Heading there last Thursday, I presumed there must be some type of wooded trail system.

When we arrived last week we poked around a bit before discovering the map of the trails. We headed in for a walk. It turns out, for a city park, Shoreview/Boeing Creek Park has fairly rugged trails. Muddy eroded off camber trails provided us with some interesting footing as we headed down to the creek. Jennifer was fortunate enough to be wearing running shoes with some tread, while I was slip sliding around in my treadless Sanuks. There was a "wet" creek crossing that I had to help Jennifer navigate as she was toting around our precious cargo.

Some of the trees in the park were of good size too. (With signs telling you just how big they are.) Plenty of 200'+ Douglas Firs in the park with sizable trunks. We walked all the way down to Hidden Lake, and then back up to the dog run before eventually returning to the car. I recommend to anyone in the north end of Seattle to take a short trip up to Shoreview if they are looking to get away from their typical walks in Carkeek and Golden Gardens. Just be prepared to get your feet wet.

Sun in Smoke

I tried several different shutter speeds and setting trying to get a shot of the sun with all the smoke in front of it to come out the firey red that it looked like to me, but it just wouldn't come out.

Indian Bread

The first photo is of a horno or oven that the Pueblo Native Americans bake their oven bread in. This day I didn't get the oven bread but got the fry bread which is a dough that they work out into a circle sort of like pizza dough. Then they fry it in a cast iron kettle full of hot oil that is on a wood fire usually of mesquite wood which gives it a really good taste. Some people like to sprinkle powered sugar or put honey on it but we prefer it just plain. It's best while still hot but still good even hours later when room temperature. We bought some and ate about half of it, then saved the rest for our picnic in the mountains. We had the left over bread with a boiled egg, some canned fruit cocktail.

The Real Unfinished Business at Chiricahua

At Chiricahua there are a series of trails that when combined will take you from Massai Point or Echo Canyon down to the Visitor Center 6.3 miles and 1,380 feet below. In addition, there are two spur trails of a mile each, making the trek 8.3 miles long (actually 8.5 including the half-mile trail from the Visitor Center back to the campground). And, this is why I returned to Chiricahua. When I was there in March, the thought of making such a long hike (it seemed long to me at the time) was daunting. That, and the fact that much of the trail was downhill didn't sink in until after I had left!

First, a shuttle bus takes you to the starting point, bright and early at 8:30 in the morning. It's about a 20 minute ride to Echo Canyon where I started out. From there it is a short walk to the Ed Riggs Trail, which connects to the Mushroom Rock Trail, which connects to the Big Balanced Rock Trail, which connects to the Sarah Deming Trail, which connects to the Lower Rhyolite Canyon Trail, which (finally) takes you to the Visitor Center. (Ah, the genealogy of a hike!) At the intersection of Mushroom Rock and Big Balanced Rock is the spur trail to Inspiration Point. Then midway along Big Balanced Rock Trail is the Heart of Rocks Loop.

Of course, there are some people that start this hike from the Visitor Center and go UP to Massai Point. However, I wasn't one of those people, besides why go up when you can just as readily go down? (Since there are so many images in this post, they have been made smaller. Please click on an image to view a larger version.)

The Ed Riggs Trail, which is only .7 miles long, quickly drops you into the canyon while the Mushroom Rock Trail gains 610 feet in elevation in 1.2 miles. It's a bit like a roller coaster, albeit a very slow moving one! Like most of the trails at Chiricahua, these were rocky. Very rocky.

Mushroom Rock.

Nearing the end of Mushroom Rock Trail.

The trail to Inspiration Point is mostly level, which was a welcome change after the ascension of Mushroom Rock Trail. Inspiration Point offers stunning views of the valley, providing a slightly different perspective than what is seen from Massai Point.

The incredible view from Inspiration Point.


Several of the formations along Big Balanced Rock Trail.

A sign posted beside the path says that Big Balanced Rock is 22 feet in diameter, 25 feet in height, and weighs 1,000 tons. (Wow. That's two million pounds! Wonder how they weighed it?)

A portion of the Heart of Rocks Loop. That's the trail, going through and over the rocks!

The trail guide says “The Heart of Rocks Loop has many of the most unusual rock formations to be found at Chiricahua.” It also says to “Start the loop to the left and hike clockwise for the best views and easiest walking. Lots of rock steps make this a challenging loop, but it's worth the effort.” Challenging? I'd have to say that the Heart of Rocks Loop is the most difficult, challenging, strenuous one-mile trail I've hiked. And other campers at Chiricahua that I've talked with who have done it, agree with that assessment. It is tough. But, oh, was it fun!

Camel's Head.

Duck on a Rock.

More formations in the Heart of Rocks Loop.

A short distance after returning to the Big Balanced Rock Trail you connect to the Sarah Deming Trail, which is 1.6 miles of rocks. Big rocks. Little rocks. In-between rocks. The Sarah Deming Trail rocks!

It seems like forever, but you will eventually arrive at the Lower Rhyolite Canyon Trail, which takes you (where else?) through the lower portion of the Rhyolite Canyon. There is also an Upper Rhyolite Canyon Trail that would take you up into the canyon to connect to two other trails, which would take you back up to Massai Point. But I was going down, thank goodness!

When you get within a mile or so of the Visitor Center, the trail is (literally) a walk in the woods. And oh so refreshing after hiking all day in the sun!

As you can see from these photos, the terrain is quite varied. You get up close and personal with some of the stone formations. It was a most interesting day. My feet hurt. My legs were sore. My curiosity was satisfied. I was pleased that I had returned to Chiricahua. But most of all, I was very happy when I made it back to my campsite!

Local Ice Conditions

A few pics of the local ice taken today...











































My Christmas present!

Petzl Nomic and Petzl Ergo comments.

As much as I like the Nomic I climbed all of last winter in North America with the new Ergo. And for the most part loved every minute of it. We had the earliest ice and some of the latest ice I have ever seen..



For everything I got on the Ergo was big fun. Even easier to climb with on steep terrain than the original Nomic. With a single exception.



There were a few times (OK be honest more than a few) that I was flagging on. I was getting tired. When that happens I get sloppy. Or it was just really cold. I get sloppy then too.







Somewhere we were soloing easy terrain and I was both cold and tired. And I had big gloves on. When all that happens with a pair of Nomic I now realise that I will often drop my little finger (and sometimes even my ring finger)out of the grip and let them hangbelow the rotation point on the tool.



But let me back up a bit here. Petzl has gone to great lengths to add a serrated stainless blade to the pommel of the newest tools. With varying levels of success mind you over two seasons. But what we have now allows you to use the Nomic or Ergo on moderate terrain easier and just as importantly (may be more so) add some stability to the tool on steep ice after a pick stick.



Call the serrated blade in the pommel a good thing. Except when it is not.





New Ergo on the left with theolder style and smooth pommel piece



New Nomic and the new serrated pommel on the right

I and many others have used the originalNomic in alpine terrain to good effect. You adapt and use the tool differently on moderate terrain. But the serrated pommel allows even more use of the Nomic in the mtns. The pommelchange is an improvement in normal conditions.



But on technical ground not so much in a verylimited circumstance. Here is why I think so. Even if I don't drop a finger out of the grip, I want as much rotation from the tool as possible. One reason I think the Fusion is an inferior tool for most in comparison to the Nomic. The spike of the Fusion and the serrated blade on the Nomic will eventually limit the rotation of the tool in the palm of your hand.



I might accept that in the Nomic and have with the newest tools and while climbing with the new Fusion and the spike attached.. But on the Ergo...not so much. Changing picks today on my Ergos I got to thinking..."the Ergo would be a better tool for me on really difficult climbing with the older,smooth and non serrated pommel". Easy change. Now if I drop a finger or two I won't mutilate them at the end of the swing. The stainless serrated pommel will do that and shred a pair of gloves as well if theyget between your finger and the ice.



That experiencecan be painful and indelible.

Easy answer? "Does that hurt?" "Then stop doing *IT*!" If I worked at it Icould always keep my hands and arms in the bus. But being tired comes with the game as does cold temps and big gloves. Generally if I have my Ergos out I am likely to get bit again. So I changed the pommels to the original style. Depending on what the climb is I might even change out my new Nomic's pommelsas well.



Not the typical response when looking at the old or new Petzl tools but something to think about if the parts are available. Everyone seems to wantthe new serrated pommel on their old tools. I prefer having the option of both style of pommel. And if I had to chose between the two for every condition I'd stay with the smooth, original ones. I know I'll get tired again and I won't keep my hands and arms inside the bus.



Back to the issue of the pommels themselves.



It is not like I am making this stuff up! What happened to the "old days" when a broken grip rest was the rare and onlyissue with a Nomic?



The new improved - tools just became available again recently in Europe and now here in the US and North America. Already I am getting reports in ofloosepommels.



this is typical:



"Interestingly though I've had mine for 1 month now. Bought a brand new pair at full retailas soon as they hit the shops here in Chamonix. The bottom griprest has already started to wobble on me. Pretty annoying but I was just wondering if you knew of anyone who has had the same issue?"



The answer is, yes. Theone pictured below is not the first I have heard about or seen.



photo courtesy of a CT reader



A fewfailures reportedboth loose inserts andinserts coming out early thiswinter soit is already obvious the "fix" isn't good enough. A liberal application of steel based epoxy kept my Ergos going all of last winter. Only one size grip though because of it. I'd suggest doing the same to your new tools. And I really hate adding this...as dumb as it might sound.......but be gentle with your pommels. You can imagine just how careful I am with mine when mixing and matching pommels. Which has to be analmost acertain recipe for failure until Petzl decides to do this right again.



Petzl reports the new pommel at double the last versions strength.



"How strong is the GRIPREST?



GRIPREST strength was doubled to withstand loads of 300daN."





http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/events-0//10/12/newly-modified-versions-nomic-and-ergo-ice-axes-are-available





pommel photos courtesy of Dave Searle

Winter Afternoon on Mink Bay

A recent winter afternoon along the Lake Superior shoreline in Ontario. We had really nice clouds all afternoon and the sun kept shooting rays of light down between the clouds. I really liked the cracks in the rocks shown here, and how they draw your eye into the scene.

Polar Circus Route Description - photo essay

Icefield's Parkway - Polar Circus



"Polar Circus is a popular and classic ice climb located in the Canadian Rockies off the Icefields Parkway. Climbers from throughout the world come to Canada to test their skills (and empty their bladders, sometimes unintentionally) on this incredible, 700 meter tiered frozen waterfall. Originally rated Grade VI, the first ascent of this route required eight days, fixed ropes, and substantial aid on the steepest sections. In what was to become a typical situation on this beautiful wall, the climb was crowded even during the first ascent, with two parties competing for the prize. The second ascent party, narrowly missing being the first to bag this great line, eliminated all but five meters of aid from the route. With the evolution of modern tools and techniques, "Circus" has since been downgraded to Grade V, WI5, and is typically climbed by competent teams in a long day from the Icefields Parkway."



With a 5 minute approach from the road this is one of the WI2+pitches that start up theCirrus Mtn Gully aka theCanadian water ice classic...."Polar Circus". Below: looking up the first of thethose early easy pitches in early Jan. conditions. The perfect warm up for the climbingto come. 1st step on the approach.







A bit more of easy climbing(appro. 200m) leads you to the first steep section of water ice. 2nd step on the approach below. And then yet some more rambling to get to the base of the first steep pitch on the route.







Below is going up the gully and turning right to start the first steep pitch. Chain and boltrap anchors on the right at the top of the pitch.







Below, looking down from the start of that pitch.







Polar Circus '80, in easy ice conditions...the first steep bit that blocks access to the upper gully. Depending on conditions any where from WI3+ to WI 4.









The same pitch in Feb and a bit steeper and more sustained.









Same pitch early Jan and much steeper than it first appears.







Late in the season,with safe avi conditionsand on warm, soft ice, Polar Circus can bean easy (WI4+/ 5-), and super classic one day ice climb. With an short approach and quick descent it is oneto go back to again and again.



The first snow section below:







Below is the last section of ice (WI2/3) before the snow gully and short ice steps below the Pencil.







On top of that pitch, again 1980 with bivy gear (the 80/81 winterseason turned Polar Circusfrom an over night climbto a one day route). This is atthe beginning of the long snow gully below the Pencil.







And the Pencil's snow gully below:













Below, turning the Pencil (which is obvious, directly above) on it's right hand side.













This is looking down the snow gully section just after turning the easy ice at the base of the Pencil which is on the right of this picture and just out of sight. Climber's right, then leftand up hill of this pictureis the avi prone slope.














Turning the Pencil just below and gaining the avi slope. Short bitsof up to WI4 and a lot of easy ice steps and easy snow terrain are below this. Spectacular position! The avi slope goes up and out to the right and then back left, up and then left again into the upper bowl above. That final level traverse back into the basin and the upper tiers can be really scary because of the sun exposure and snow conditions.



John Lauchlan in this picture and belowthearea where he was likelyswept away in an avalanche while trying to make the first solo ascent in the early winter of 1982.







Ray Jotterand photo 1979





The unformed Pencil's bottom stub.









Partially formed Pencil in early Jan.









Looking up from the firstright hand sectionof snow traverse above the Pencil. At the trees in the picture the track jogs back left, up and left againinto the huge upper bowl.





Below is the upper left hand traverse which can be a little spooky if the snow conditions are bad.

In thepicture below we are belaying the entire traverse..which is a new one for me. Likely we shouldn't have been there at all in those snow conditons. We made do.

















Get there early while the traverseis still in the shade!



The last four pitches of the climb (or 3 rope stretching pitches with a 60 or 70mrope and some imagination) and for a strong party these might be the only pitchesyou rope up on in good conditions. In early Jan of '75 the first ascent partyclimbed 14 roped pitches of ice and taken 8 days up and down. Water fall climbing was stillnew and nothing this long or this cold had been done before. Charlie Porter, the Burgess Twins and Bugs McKeith were some of the most accomplished climbers of their generation at the time. The second ascent lead by Canadian, Laurie Skreslet, literally following in the 1st ascent teamsfoot steps, donein two days and all but the last short bit of itfree.



Huge admiration for both team'simagination,tenacity and skills. Ice climbing changed faster than anyone ever thought possiblebetween 1975 and 1980.



The upper bowl from lower on the route.







The upper bowl when you turnthe corner on the snow traverse. Good look at the first fun pitch on the first tier of the 3 uppertiers. The upper tiers are made up ofthis pitch (70M+), the Ribbon pitch and the final head wall of ice (2 pitches).







Below, the bivy cave used by allthe early ascents up to 1980.









Below, theRibbon pitch.











Difficulty on this pitch depends on the amount of ice some what but more importantly what time you get there, the temps and how wet the ice is. This pitch caneasily be running with water and nothing but rotten ice.







You are looking at entirelast set of tiers in this picture. The three climbers at the right side of the ice are at the base of the Ribbon pitch in fat, lateFeb '10 conditions.



















Parts of the the last longpitch (or two short pitches)are shown here on the last tier. Fixed anchors on the right with a decent belay platform and rap chains. Climber here is on the last bit of steep ice and generally the crux of the route.











The final short pitch to finish the climb..steeper than it looks and generally sun rotted ice by the time you get on it. Perfect finish to a great climb! Picture is taken for the chained belay anchor and rap point.







For shortened view of the last tier. Chains on the rock are climber's right with a good ledge,one small stepabove the climber in the picture. The belay becomes pretty obviouswhen you are there. More so than in thispicture.







Looking back down the final pitch just below the last set of rap chains. Incredible piece of ice!







The always terrifing, free hanging rap off the Pencil on the way down. And not always the easiest rap station to find in the dark if it has been snowing. My suggestion is when in doubt "follow the water course" into thegully. You want thethird one on the far right. From the upper tier you walk to the first station(fixed pins and tat) that are on the left wall (looking down) where it narrows and steepens. The second setare fixed pins and tat again, this timeon the right hand side of the gully when facing down hill. The wrong gullies start outmuch steeper than the correct rap line. If it seems too weird and scary go north a gully...or two. You want teh tird gull on the north side of the bench.







A wonderful climb to be done over and over again just for the fun of it!



Polar Circus topo courtesy of Joe Palma copyright 2007

Some chainachors were replaced and new ones installed in the spring/fall of



Dbl click to enlarge the topo and check out the rap line, depending on conditions and daylightif might be a little confusing first time up the route.













Another topo here worth looking at as well:

http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/climbs/polarcir/topo.pdf


Gear Notes:



These days all but the lastrap anchorare bolts, fixed chains or pins and tat. You will rap straight over the Pencil so be careful there of you or your rope knocking anything down. 70m ropes are really much easier but 60m ropes will work as well. Take some tat for V threads but make sure someone hasn't beat you to it already. V threads get burried quicky on the upper pitches where you might need them so come prepared.



Be really careful on the avi slop above the Pencil...it has been fatal. It has three sections, a right hand traverse, a left hand traverse and short up hill and a final long left hand traverse which is a good sized slope show in the pictures above. A slides here will dump debrisinto the canyon below the Pencil.



Avi danger in particular on this route can be very high. Even small slidescoming out of the upper bowl while on the last 3 tiers will be serious.



Worth a look at the photos here:



http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ab/banff/visit/visit7a12/visit7a12c-3/Polar%20Circus.aspx



and no the photos arenot photo shopped.....



A dozen screws should be plenty for anyone capable of finishing the climb. In good conditions plan on anywhere from 5 to 3 roped pitches depending on the length of your rope and a lot of easy ice either soloed or climbed together.



A early start will get you off before the south facing avi slopes heat up. Or better yet do it on a snowy, cloudy and cold day. You can avoid the avi danger and soft, rotten ice on the crux pitch if you do without the sun. Don't forget 3 or 4 long screws just for that rotten ice late in the day.



8 or 9 hrs round trip, car to car, these days is a reasonable time with good ice and snow conditions. 5 or 6 hrs of climbing. A hook fest on hammered out ice will make it quicker. A lot of snow to break trail through or really cold, new ice canmake it a "slightly" longer day.There is a reason the climb is rated a V for over all grade and time.



Approach Notes:



On a good day 10 minutes up a boot packed trail from the road. Cowboy-up and start on the first easy ice available instead of walking up the snow slope to the left and beginning of the first WI4 pitch.